Smokey Mountains into the Cherokee Homeland

The largest forest and biomass East of the Mississippi River, the Smokey Mountains get their name comes from the natural fog that hangs over the range. Although there have been forest fires, it isn't really smoke; the fog is actually caused by the trees! Their vapors create constant mists which float between the ravines like plumes of smoke. 



How beautiful to drive through the mountains just as the leaves begin to turn. Travelling South we had the experience multiple times. The Poconos had just had their first frost and lighht snowfall as we departed, the russet leaves had already fallen from the oak trees in our yard. Along the Blue Ridge, it was mostly still green with a few turning leaves in the higher elevations. Climbing into the Smokeys, the leaves again turned from green to gold and red. The mountain passes were breathtaking. Undulating views from the summits down into the valleys. We paused to appreciate each turn of scene.

Our next campground was buried deep in the Cherokee Homeland. We had to drive there twice. The GPS route was actually closed and we had to back track and take another route. It was with great relief that we finally found our way. Down steep hills and long sinous rills, we drove past signs with location names in both Anglo and Cherokee characters. Streets with tribal family names and small farms abounded. I didn't know much about the Cherokee, beyond Sequoia's development of a written language and the trail of tears.

In driving through Oklahoma, we had passed by one reservation after another. The Great white Fathers broke numerous treaties. With catastrophic consequences most of the original inhabitants of the initial colonies and those tribes encountered during America's manifest destiny expansion had been “relocated” under the 1830s Indian removal act to lands in Oklahoma. Drive Route 50 cross country and you will see their revenge, one casino complex after another. This area of the Smokey Mountains is not a reservation; this is part of the original Cherokee Homeland. The tribe, now known as the Eastern Band, still in residence had managed to keep their lands and avoided the tragic forced march to the barren mid-west. It appeared here that the overall quality of life and cultural identity had been retained. How did they accomplish this?

Aside from the pervasive signage in the Cherokee language, one evidence of the cultural strength was the new school complex we passed on our way and from the campground. It was a beautiful campus. Located alongside a flowing stream, it discreetly combined the current trends for enhanced security without sacrificing any educational welcome or the rural settings. The architecture evoked the mountains and repeated themes common in Cherokee graphics and basketry. The curriculum includes an extensive cultural program, with the Cherokee culture integrated into areas, Cherokee language and history, traditional song and dance, a Heritage week and an emphasis on honoring Grandparents and Elders. Not all serious stuff, the culture is in the sports program too. The teams chant a Cherokee war song before games. It must be effective as a large sign proclaimed that the Lady Braves were the State Basketball Champions.

The Cherokee Museum of History traces 13000 years from paleolithic pre-colonial culture, to initial contacts with Europeans and into subsequent American history. All told from a perspective quite different from the conventional history books. Since these were the peoplewho had suceeded in maintaining a continuous history and identity, the depiction seemed quite fair and balanced, and absolutely fascinating. One extensive display was the first Cherokee impressions of London, when they went to England to meet with the King. To our modern eyes, the Cherokee's opinion of the foppish 17^th century dress seem right on target. The Cherokee suede breeches and moccasins are still worn, not so with powdered wigs and codpieces.

The detailed explanation of Sequoia's interest and process in developing their written language was a semanticist's dream. He was brilliant. He was illiterate but recognized thata written language would help ensure the Cherokee cultural identity. He taught himself to read in English and derived a syllabary suitable to the spoken conventions of the Cherokee language. Each character represents a full phoneme, as the spoken language combines consonants with vowels into syllables. In addition, the written symbols are elegant and beautiful in appearance.

The section of more recent history, the sad tradition of broken treaties and duplicity made me want to loudly announce that my forbears were not involved - - being as they were similarly being chased around Europe. There had been three main tribes of Cherokee on the homelands. One group seeing the writing on wall, sold out. While the lands were not actually theirs to sell, they sold out to the White man, pocketing the proceeds and purchasing good arable land in the Midwest. This enabled them to relocate with some degree of dignity and live in comfort. Another group refused to concede and were force marched with a great loss of life. The remaining tribe took the oath of American Citizenship, and as citizens put a portion of their lands in a trust now known as the Qualla Boundary (under a white man) which preserved their rights to their homeland and to great extent their culture. This schism in the Cherokee lasted until the 20^th Century, exacerbated by differing attitudes on slavery during the Civil War. The tribe also has a cultural dinner theater experience. The Museum was sufficient food for thought.

On our way out of the Smokey Mountains National Park we stopped at the Oconaluftee Mountain Farm Museum. There is a visitor center and a collection of historic log buildings which were gathered from throughout the Smoky Mountains. A residential home, a horse barn, an apple house, a spring house and a smokehouse are on display. While not extensive it is unique, indicating how laborious was farming life last century.


The spring house in particular, it was daunting to envision laundry days in the dark confines of the spring house. The log house was of chestnut, a beautiful wood no longer seen as the chestnut blight of decimated the American Chestnut in the 1930s. 

The geometry of the barn's post and beam construction was a wonderful symmetry, reminding me both of the traditional the Cherokee basket motifs and of Frank Lloyd Wright's organic Sumac and Wheat designs.