Niagara - - two sides to the Falls

In Niagara we stayed with Yogi Bear. There is an entire chain of campgrounds with a Yogi Bear theme. Our experience had been that these are pleasant well run facilities with the usual amenities, which do provide a variety of additional children's activities. We would forgo the latter but take advantage of a shuttle bus from the campground to the Falls. Yeah, less driving and no parking! Our driver sported horseshoe mustachios to match the Falls.  

Niagara Falls on the US side is quite unappealing, crowded, filled with traffic and cheap tourist attractions. A series of highway strip malls filled with fast food and t-shirt shops degrading a natural wonder. Niagara Falls on the CN side is quite lovely. There are historic forts and naturalist attractions all along the river approaching the Falls. The Falls themselves can be appreciated from the top or the bottom. You can hike through tunnels to observation areas dug into the cliffside to see the water rushing down past you. Absolutely stunning and fascinating. Surrounding the actual Falls area has been controlled development. Walkways, paths and garden beds at the waters edge. Hotels and shops, all coordinated architecturally, spreading outward through the town. In the US it has been pure capitalist development, with it appears minimal oversight; on the CN side a non-profit was founded to develop the area and they have controlled the very extensive and successful development. It all looks very high end in CN, very much the opposite in US. Rather embarrassing for an American crossing the border.

From the Canadian side the Falls surround you in a dramatic horseshoe. It seems as though it is raining but it is just the delicate spray thrown off by the force of the volumes of water permeating the air. It is a 188 feet drop for the 150,000 gallons per second pouring out of the Niagara River. The saturated air moistens every environmental surface; you might as well be in a sub-tropical rain forest. It is no wonder that the plantings look so lush. Having wandered up and down, inside and out of the Falls, you might build up an appetite. There is an excellent restaurant featuring local products overlooking the Falls. We were lucky enough to get a seat at the window with a peferct central view of the Falls and the huge 3D letters spelling out “Canada” on the landing. This spot was where folks would congregate to take their commemorative photos. In addition to the awe inspiring sights and sounds of the Falls themselves. This is an area for excellent people watching!

As an international tourist attraction, there are groups of every nationality, creed and color. You hear a mixture of languages murmuring in the background and see costumes indicating far far distance lands. The stereotypical far Asian tour group taking constant selfies and photos. The East Indian families helping rotund Grandmas (Great Grandmas?) as teenagers with only slightly petulant expressions corral younger siblings. Granny in a somber Widow's sari or Salwar Chemise,the younger Wifes and Mothers in brighter versions and the males and children all in Western dress. Even a few clearly Muslim families with some of the women in full Burqa. To avoid weighing their covering down in the damp, they would lift the hem occasionally displaying a graceful turned ankle or a brightly colored dress. There were similarly apparent Orthodox Jewish families, the men and boy's yarmulke and the tzitziyot on their tallit katan displaying their religious allegiance. Their wives and daughters were discretely modest. Perhaps the most unexpected was a large group of heavily tattooed inner city friends, a rough looking gang. They set themselves around the big Niagara Falls letter statuary, incongruously posing displaying finger pistols and shooting each other. Their broad smiles undercut any actual aggressive implication. Everyone is awed by the force of the Falls and reflects their appreciation with demeanor of child like wonder. It is a place full of good cheer.